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Steamboat Living: Things Steamboaters should know

Audrey Dwyer

No matter how long you’ve been here, there are certain things you ought to know how to do living in Steamboat. We’re not talking the obvious how to ski or bike, but the more intrinsic things to have in your seasonal arsenal here in Ski Town USA. No masters ourselves, we combed the valley floor for tips from experts to help ease the learning curve.

When the River Peaks

Wise soothsayers look to the west-facing slopes of Mount Werner for guidance. When the two brown spots on each side meet, that’s when the river peaks. “It’s usually pretty darn spot-on,” says local paddler and river store owner Pete VanDeCarr, of Backdoor Sports. “It’s better than most high-tech USGS predictions.”



How the Town Got Its Name

Wow your visiting friends with this little nugget of wisdom. When the first French fur trappers came through town in the early 1800s, they heard a bubbling sound emanating from the mineral spring near the site of the current Depot Art Center. Mistaking it for the chugging engine of a steamboat, they named the area Steamboat Springs.



How to Ride a Poma

Put your poles in one hand, scoot forward to the line, wait for it to come around, then grab it and put the round seat between your legs. Do not sit down! At the top, pull it out and pendulum yourself forward to clear the off-ramp. You didn’t hear it from us, but to jump en route, squat down just before a depression and then pop up and yell “Wheeee!” (Just don’t let the lift ops see you.)

How to Pick Up the Tab

Do it secretively instead of making a big to-do about it. Slide the waiter your credit card en route to the bathroom or snatch up the bill as soon as it arrives. Hint: If you do it during happy hour, chances are you’ll come out ahead come payback time.

How to Pose for a Ski Photo

The way we see it, you have two choices: ski poles in one hand off to the side, with hand resting on grip tops; or one ski up with base facing the camera (and potential sponsors). And don’t forget to say “cheese!” “Also, don’t squint your eyes,” Sharpshooter photographer Brent Bessey says. “If you’re looking directly into the sun, wear sunglasses.” You also can hold your skis in one hand or lie on your board, he adds. “But truthfully, I’m more a fan of the action shot.” For that annual season pass photo? Get a new one every year; it’s the only way to see how you age in a ski town.

How to Find Freshies

Com’ on … did you really think we were going to unveil our hard-earned secret stashes? Best bet: Sign up for Fresh Tracks. It could well be the best ski town investment you’ll ever make.

How to Enjoy and Appreciate Art

Three letters: FFA. It stands for First Friday Artwalk, during which, at the beginning of each month, local galleries open their doors and wine bottles to showcase new wares. The free downtown gallery stroll is perhaps town’s best grass-roots art event. “It exposes people to the creative energy that is here in the valley,” local artist Bonnie McGee says. Indeed, you couldn’t ask for a better place to impress your date with your softer, cultural side. Just don’t mix up your abstract from impressionism or plein air.

How to Ride a Bull

Okay, so you might not ever have to or want to. But it’s a good skill regardless, even if it’s just impressing your friends on the mechanical bovine at the base. “It’s simple,” says now-retired 17-year bull rider Brent Romick, who calls his biggest accolade simply surviving. “Keep your hand closed, your feet in your rope and your eyes open. Do these three, and you can often make it to eight seconds.” He adds that it’s also important to bend over and kiss your rear goodbye.

When is Naked Hour at the Strawberry Park Hot Springs?

It’s a gray area. Not the part that’s being uncovered, ahem, but the time. The hot springs’ “clothing optional after dark” decree ranges from as early as 5:30 p.m. in the dead of daylight-saving-time winter to 9:30ish p.m. around the summer solstice. It’s a great rule; just don’t flaunt your wares so it can stay that way.

How to Buy Cowboy Boots

From rhino to alligator, elephant to cow, options abound when it comes to buying cowboy boots. F.M. Light employee Dan Hoover suggests trying on a pair a half size smaller than usual (with socks), and pick out something that fits your persona. Boots are meant to fit tight, but make sure your foot works with the toe; some boots are pointy and others squared. Don’t buy used, as those have already formed to another wearer, and consider potential wear and tear on a softer leather. As for cost, $200 will get you a good pair, but the price can soar beyond $1,000 — the kind you won’t want to trample around in in manure.

How to Roll a Kayak

Consider kayaking as one step up the river rung from tubing. Whether you’re a river rat or not, we live in a great place to learn. To fully master it, first comes mastering the roll. “It’s crucial if you’re going to progress,” says Barry Smith, of Mountain Sports Kayak School. There are four keys, he says: “Kiss your cockpit once upside-down; reach up and extend your paddle blade out of the water; sweep it across the surface; and snap your hips, keeping your head down. Having your head come up the last is the most important. Master that, and you’re golden.”

How to Ski into (and out of) Fish Creek

We’re not advocating skiing out of bounds. But if you do, don’t get lost. Enter through an official access gate, take the right gear and never go alone. Most importantly, know where you’re going (don’t just aimlessly follow tracks). One hint we will proffer: On the ski out, veer left at the fork to avoid hitching home from Fish Creek Falls. On second thought, scratch all that. Stay out, or go with someone who knows.

How to Find King Solomon Falls

Don’t ask how many people have gotten lost searching for this gem of a plunge-pool cliff jump. To get there, turn left on the dirt road past Columbine Cabins toward Three Forks Lodge. After about a half-hour, look for white cliffs on your left marking a two-track off to your right (Note: If you reach the entrance gate for Three Forks Lodge, you’ve gone too far). Drive the bumpy road for a half-mile and then hike down a trail to the creek. The pool is about 20 minutes upstream (Hint: Take the trail close to the river instead of the one veering high to the right).

How to Repair a Flat Tire

There are those who’ve gotten flats, and those who will. To get back rolling and make that happy hour, Brock Webster, of Orange Peel Bicycle Service, says take your time. “Don’t rush it,” he says. “A little bit of patience will save you time in the long run.” Only try a patch if you don’t have a spare, he advises, and use plastic tire levers to help get the tire off. “Only take off one side of the tire,” he adds, “and inflate the new tube a little so it has some shape. Check the tire’s inside for thorns and then put it back on by hand, without the levers. Start at the valve stem and work back around to it, which gives it the most slack.”

How to Ski Powder

Now this you should really know how to do in the home of Champagne Powder®. First, the basics. “Practice your cough and raspy voice so when you call in sick, it’s believable,” former U.S. Ski Team member David Lamb says. “Then make sure you have the right gear, which means fat skis. Their width will let you make the same kind of turn as you would on a groomer. And remember that speed is your friend, and falls in powder won’t beat you up. Also, be smart when you can. In flat sections, follow packed-down tracks to save your energy for the real turns. Be light on your feet and don’t steer your skis as much as pressuring your tails to slow you down and turn. Relax, look ahead and take a direct line.”

How to Snowmo Ski

Each year, Buff Pass vies with Wolf Creek for most snow in the state. To shred it via snowmobile, heed these hints from Colorado Mountain College Ski & Snowboard business professor Mike Martin: “Bring two sleds, as well as extra belts, gas, spark plugs and a tow rope. Plan for a blizzard, from survival gear to headlamp and fire starter. If riding ‘caveman’ style (one person on each side), interlock arms for better balance. When it comes to towing, bring a long rope (or two) and stagger their length so towers can ride off to the sides.”

How to Swing Dance

Stuck in the toe-stepping rut? Head to Schmiggity’s for Two-Step Tuesday night. “It’s simple,” instructor Holly Blanchard says. “Quick, quick/slow, slow; or quick, quick, slow/quick, quick, slow.” (Each “quick” gets one step, each “slow” gets two.) “If you can walk in and count from one to six, you can two-step,” she says. “People make it harder and weirder than you have to.” For good ol’ country swing, go to the same side (“to your right,” she says, “so you spin around clockwise”) and don’t worry about your feet. “Your feet don’t matter. It’s all about big arm movements.” And yes, she adds, the Pretzel is still in. Two other things: “Women, beware the butt spin on the floor, and have a glass of wine to relax your arms.”

How to Wax Your Skis

“Hot waxing is similar for Nordic, jumping, Alpine and snowboarding,” Steamboat Springs Winter Sports Club Nordic coach Brian Tate says, adding that an iron’s heat opens up the base and allows for saturation. “Get a good vice and start with your ski warm. Drip or rub wax onto the base and then move the iron from tip to tail for about 6 to 8 seconds, repeating to get full coverage. For Nordic, set the iron for the hardness of the wax and don’t overheat the base; cross-country skis are fragile. Also, apply enough wax for heat control, keeping a good layer between iron and base. Scrape and brush once it’s cooled. Scrape from tip to tail with consistent, careful pressure. A sharp scraper is important but also dangerous. A few passes should be enough. Brush aggressively from tip to tail.”

How to Tune Your Skis

“Don’t,” advises Olympian Chad Fleischer, of Fleischer Sport. “Let someone else do it. The days of tuning your own skis are pretty much gone, unless you really know what you’re doing. These days, everyone’s using precision machines that can give your skis everything from the perfect bevel to the perfect grind. Technology has come a long, long way, so just bring it into the store.”

How to Drive on Snow

No, this doesn’t mean pulling “brodies” in a parking lot. “Monitor road conditions,” says Mark Cox, director of the Bridgestone Winter Driving School. “Determine how much traction is available by braking until the wheels lock up. If you’re forced to react, you’ve already made a mistake. Most accidents can be prevented with just one additional second to react. Gain this by looking ahead. Brake only in a straight line prior to the curve. Accelerate only when you’re able to straighten the wheel at the turn’s exit. When your rear wheels skid and the vehicle spins, you’re over-steering. Don’t panic or brake — steer into the skid (the direction you’d rather be going) and accelerate smoothly to transfer weight to the rear and regain grip. When your vehicle refuses to turn and the front wheels are skidding, you’re under-steering. Lift off the accelerator and turn back toward straight, allowing the front wheels to regain grip and start rolling.”

How to Take a Photo Outside

We live in a great place to take photos, so don’t blow it. “Shoot during the golden hours,” local photographer Dan Tullos says. “The sun’s low angle creates shadows and adds depth and texture.” Also, put the important objects in thirds. “If you’re taking a picture of mountains, make sure the horizon is straight and positioned either one-third up from the bottom or one-third down from the top,” he says. “This looks the most natural and emphasizes the foreground or sky. People’s faces look best when they’re positioned on the upper third of the photo.” Finally, he advises, include people in your landscapes: “It gives it a sense of scale and context,” he says. In the winter, heed the advice of Sharpshooter Brent Bessey: “Shoot from either a low or high angle, and over-expose it a couple of stops. Otherwise, it’ll come out dull and grey.”

How to Tele Turn

People do care that you Tele — especially if you do it correctly. Instead of dropping the knee or dropping the sport, PSIA-certified Telemark instructor Barry Smith says “Don’t drop too low … you can’t turn your feet and it’s more tiring.” He adds to make sure you weight both feet and that as you’re shuffling into position, “twist both of your feet at the same time.” You also want both feet to remain independent. An analogy other locals use: Pretend like you’re picking up a penny while wearing a tight skirt. Still stuck? Take a lesson. Q: How many Telemark skiers does it take to change a lightbulb? A: 10: One to change it and nine to say, “Nice turn!”

How to Avoid Butt Bruises Tubing

Avoiding a sore heinie when tubing the river is a team effort. The tuber in front should alert fellow tubers behind to upcoming obstacles by yelling, “Butts up!” Then comes the art itself. Lift your derriere out of harm’s way by arching your back up and weighting your elbows until the obstacle has passed. Finally, make sure your tube is fully inflated before heading out for extra gluteal clearance.

How to Take Care of Someone Else’s Dog

Live in a ski town, and it’ll happen. Someone will ask you to take care of their dog while they skip town for the weekend. Steamboat resident Erin Orr, whose Chihuahua Quita recently passed away and who now happily helps out her friends, offers this advice. “Rule No. 1: Don’t lose the dog. If the owner says Ellsworth needs to be kept on a leash, keep it on a leash. Rule No. 2: Follow instructions (no matter how weird). If Ellsworth’s owner says not to freak out if he poops candy wrappers, don’t freak out.”

How to Ski with Kids

Lessons are the best way to teach your kids how to ski. But there’ll also come a time when you’re out on the slopes with them yourself, yelling the classic “pizza pie” and “french fry” commands. You also can tell your aspiring skiers to put their hands on the outside of their knees and “push the magic button” to turn and slow down (push the right magic button to turn left, the left to turn right, and both to slow down). You’ll also delve into the wonderful world of vertebrae-tweaking ski harnesses, which have mummified more than one parent-toddler tandem.

Former kids ski instructor Julie Mouse advocates holding a ski pole out to the side for them to grab onto anytime they need to slow down. “We didn’t even use a harness for our daughter Lily,” she says. “She went to the pole technique right away.”

How to Park at the Resort

To cut your having-to-loop-back-around losses, head straight to the Meadows Lot and catch the bus or Wildhorse gondola. Otherwise, depending on how early you arrive, risk having to circle back by trying to fit into, in order: Ski Time Square; tiny micro-Knoll; and then the Knoll Parking Lot. Hint: If you arrive after 10 a.m., cruise Knoll’s front row, where early birds might have left already. To avoid all this cluster, hit the pay-for parking at Ski Time Square, which benefits the Steamboat Springs Winter Sports Club, or convince a spouse or friend to drop you off at Thunderhead.

Rodeo Rules

Eight seconds for bareback, saddle bronc and bull riding. In saddle bronc and bareback, cowboys must “mark out” horse (exit chute with spurs above horse’s shoulders and hold there until horse’s front feet hit the ground). In all, touching the animal, rider or any equipment with free hand results in disqualification. Team roping: Clock stops when all four legs have been roped, slack has been taken up and both ropers are facing one another (five-second penalty if heeler catches only one foot). Tie-down roping: Any three legs have to be tied together; roper throws hands up to signal flag judge, then gets back on and rides toward the calf, which must remain tied for six seconds after the rope is slack. Steer wrestling: Once steer reaches the “scoreline,” rope barrier is released and wrestler and hazer give chase; wrestler has to bring down steer so its shoulders are on the ground. Barrel racing: Cloverleaf pattern around three barrels (in either direction) in fastest time (knocked-over barrel incurs five-second penalty).

How to Ski Bumps

Who else are we going to go to for this one but Steamboat’s own Nelson Carmichael, who brought home the Olympic bronze in 1992? “Stay centered over your skis,” he says, stressing weight placed evenly over your feet with shins resting on the tongue of your boots. “Keep your hips standing up, as opposed to sitting back. Have your hands up and forward, and your eyes looking ahead instead of at the bump you’re skiing into. Stay tall, stay centered.” Also control your speed. “Edge pressure and turn angle dictate how fast you’ll go. Concentrate on speed control through the line, in the ruts themselves. Connect one trough to the next, keeping downward pressure on your outside ski as you turn down the backside of each mogul. Finish each turn shape completely. The more across the hill your angle, the more control you’ll have each time. Stay in the line, maintain downward pressure and finish with a decent angle.”

How to Put On/Take Off Skins

The craze of earning your turns is growing each year, and to hop on the bandwagon, you need a pair of touring bindings equipped with climbing skins. First, make sure they’re sized correctly — you want slight tension, not slack — and are free of snow. “Make sure it’s centered so it’s not hanging off the edges,” says ski patroller Kyle Lawton, who’s skinned to the podium in two Cody’s Challenge randonee races. “Then pull taut and apply pressure with your hand to smooth out the bases before attaching the clip or tail attachment.” To remove, take off your skis, peel the skins off and fold each in half glue to glue (or re-attach backing) so they don’t get dirty (with practice, you can keep your skis on when removing). Then stuff them in your jacket or pack and get ready to rip the next lap.

How to Ride Little Moab

This short-but-sweet, loose-rocked, biking badge of courage just below the Quarry on Emerald Mountain is one of the trail system’s only places to test your technical ability. So don’t back off, Orange Peel Bicycle Service owner Brock Webster says. “It’s steep and looks like something you might want to inch your way down, but don’t,” he says. “Speed is your friend. Pick your line, don’t halt momentum and hold on for a 10th of a mile.” He also advises the usual when it comes to steep, technical riding: keep your weight back, pick a clean line, and stay off front brake. For those trying to ride up it, he says, good luck. “That’s like a once-a-year ride for me,” he says. “It’s all about the fitness, picking your line and keeping your wheels moving.”

How to Snowmobile

“The biggest thing,” Steamboat Powersports’ staff says, “is to ride with people for safety. And always bring the proper safety gear, for everything from avalanches to spending the night outside.” For actual handling, get the hang of putting the snowmobile on edge, especially when riding off-trail. “The biggest backcountry riding skill you can learn is counter-steering,” they maintain, adding that it involves getting the sled up on edge and turning the opposite way you’re leaning. “Your handlebars go left to turn right, and vice versa. Being on edge equals being in control.”

How to Walk on Ice

It’s simple, experts say. Walk like a penguin. That means keeping your center of gravity over your front leg. Above all, look for trouble spots before they find you. If you get someplace suspect, adopt the penguin stance and weight your feet evenly and gingerly. If you find yourself in a slip, you have two options, both a bit of a lose-lose: Try to recover, which can often make things worse, or go with it, often resulting in a derriere-landing splatdown. And you always can swallow your pride and invest in those nifty traction devices for the bottom of your shoes. Just remember to take them off before hitting the dance floor.

How to Shovel Snow

Learn nothing else from this feature and at least master this. “Take the first few snowfalls real easy,” says Von Wilson, of Backsmith Chiropractic. “It’s just like getting into shape for skiing and biking.” Next, he advises, use good form. “Bend your knees, try not to twist too much and keep your back straight.” Or, of course, you could ignore all this, which would be better for his business.

How to Pitch a Tent

There was a time when tents needed instruction manuals and multiple people to pitch. Today, local companies like Big Agnes have simplified things, leaving you more time to catch that trout, climb that peak or roast that marshmallow over the fire. A few pointers: Pitch the tent on level ground, spread out the base first and then connect the poles into each corner and position the door accessibly (not leading straight into a bush). Also, note where your campfire will be beforehand — no need to have your tent smell like smoke. Final tip: Crack a beer while you’re setting it up. It might not make the process go faster, but it’ll be more fun.

How to Carry Your Skis

You can tell a beginner from a seasoned vet before even setting edge to snow. It’s all about how they carry their skis. Don’t be the gomer corralling skis and poles every which way across your chest. Carry them like a pro. “Experienced skiers carry them over their shoulder with the tips forward,” says local Olympian Deb Armstrong, who carried her skis to the gold medal podium in giant slalom at the 1984 Olympics in Sarajevo. “Tourists carry them with the tails forward.” To do so, stand them upright, locked together with their ski brakes, grab beneath the tips with a reverse grip and swing over your shoulder. Bonus: Providing counterweight with your forearm frees up your hand to carry your poles, thus freeing your other hand to hold that coffee or breakfast burrito, or blow your nose.

How to Snowboard

We’re going to assume you know how to ski. To master its sister in schussing, approach the hill a little differently by starting on easier runs. “Just because you can ski it without thinking doesn’t mean you should try it on a snowboard,” snowboard instructor Scott Anfang says.

Steer clear of narrow paths like cat tracks, he advises, and instead look for wide green and even blue runs. “Not all green runs are created equal,” he says. “A wide, gentle, green run is great for learning.” When turning, he adds, go from edge to flat to new edge and resist the temptation to hurry through the flat board stage. “Keep your eyes looking toward the board’s nose,” he adds, “and stand with your shoulders paralleling the edge of the board not across it like your holding ski poles.” Above all, he says, “Ride for yourself. Enjoy what you like about snowboarding.”

How to Wear a Cowboy Hat

Steamboat’s ranching heritage ensures you’ll see sombreros around town. But there’s a right and wrong way to wear them, longtime cowboy Brent Romick says. Pick a hat with enough brim to shade your face, he says, and a crown that matches the shape of your face (i.e. a tall crown for a long face, a short one for a squat face). And don’t wear it crooked, to the side or at an angle, “or else you’ll look like a dance hall cowboy.”

Also, never wear it backward (the bow on the inside goes in back) and never, ever, ever put your hat on your bed. “It’s the worst luck,” Romick says. “If you don’t want to get your teeth knocked out at the rodeo the next day, don’t put your hat on your bed.”

How to Skate Ski

Skate skiing correctly involves a learning curve, best gained by studying others, U.S Nordic combined skier Ben Berend says. Bend zee knees und follow me. “Like any sport, be in an athletic position,” he says, advising knees slightly bent, head up and hands out in front and inside the frame of your shoulders, with elbows out slightly. It’s a lot like ice skating with ski poles, he adds. Alternate the skating motion from ski to ski, and as a beginner, push with your poles only on every other stride. The goal is to achieve economy of motion. Take your time and don’t forget to glide. “A lot of people go out for 30 minutes and say ‘I’m cooked,’” Berend says. “That’s because they aren’t skiing efficiently. Ski with your butt over your feet. If it’s behind, you’re going to get cooked.”

How to Car Camp

Unlike backpacking, car camping allows you to bring the kitchen sink, literally. Whether you’re in a camper or tent, bring it all and ask questions about if you really needed it later. That’s the beauty of it. For a key lakeside spot, reserve a campsite well in advance; for more roadside-adjacent sites, take the time to explore a few to find the best spot, and don’t park your car on the prime socializing real estate. Backdoor Sports owner Pete VanDeCarr offers one more car camping must-have. “Bring a small guitar so you can sing songs,” he says, adding that you can always crash in your car if the tent craps out.

How to Avoid the Grocery Line

Local mom Val Dietrich has a foolproof scheme. “I go first thing Sunday morning before the kids get out of bed and without them,” she says, adding that the store is usually fully stocked. “Don’t bring them. They just prolong everything because they want everything.” Also avoid holiday weekends, she adds, and Saturday evenings in winter. “That’s when a lot of the tourists get to town, and the first thing they do is stock their fridge,” she says. Her final advice? “Don’t go when I go.”

How to Cast a Fly

Veteran fly casting instructor Jeff Ruff honed his 15-minute crash course for beginners by helping dozens of his Steamboat Springs Middle School students catch their first trout on a fly line. A flexible fly rod is a spring and fly casters use the kinetic energy of 15 feet of fly line straightening out behind them to load it. Reversing the flex of the spring ultimately propels the line forward. The first step, Ruff says, is to strip 15 to 20 feet of line beyond the tip of the rod. Second, raise the rod abruptly until its tip is straight above your head or just slightly beyond. Then exercise patience. “You have to pause to let that line straighten out,” he says. “Once you do that, it doesn’t really matter what you do bringing the rod forward. It will make a loop and the line will go out.”

How to Skin an Elk

We’re surrounded by the largest elk herds in the country. Know how to skin one. “Get the meat cooled as quickly as possible by removing the hide,” hunter Bill Van Ness says. “Get the elk stable and make sure your knives are sharp — the hide will dull them quickly.” After removing the entrails, he’ll take out the tenderloins and then cut the hide midpoint in the animal. “Cut a straight line from the belly to the spine and skin forward toward the shoulder,” he says. “When you reach the front leg, cut around the knee joint and then up the back of the leg to the brisket. Peel the hide around the leg and continue up the neck to the skull. The back half is a similar. Peel back the hide, cut around the knee and progress up the leg’s inside. When the hide is off that half, remove the quarters and backstrap on that side and then carefully roll the elk over and do it all again. Take your time … don’t cut yourself by going too fast.”

How to Ice Skate

With an Olympic sheet of ice a block from downtown, ice skating should be in your Steamboat bag of tricks. Assuming you’re emulating Matt Duchene and not Will Ferrell, go with hockey skates. “When you’re starting, leave the top eyeholes open when lacing to strengthen your ankles,” says Howelsen Ice Arena Director of Hockey Corey Allen, a former D-1 player for the University of Alaska. “After a few months, lace them all the way up. Edge control starts with balance. I like doing one-foot drills, including C turns and stops. Focus on transitioning your weight from one foot to the other. Practice making long strides that recover under your body, and push out to the sides instead of behind.”


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